Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Natal Maple Drums: Bullet Review After One Year


For a little more than a year I was the proud owner of a Natal Maple US Fusion X. This was the first Natal kit sold in Hungary, so I had no idea what to expect when it arrived. I was not disappointed.

Recently I decided to sell my Natal to a friend. But that does mean I don't love it. It really is a fine kit. If you see one for the right price and you need a modern kit, do not hesitate to consider it!!! Natal's pro kits are as good as anything I've seen from the production lines of Asia, Europe, or the Americas.



Lots of big tom runs in this track. Really a good example of the lively sound I was getting.


Sizes 
Short stack sizes, as follows:
  • 10 x 6.5" 
  • 12 x 7" 
  • 16 x 14" 
  • 22 x 18"

 Wood and shells
  • Maple, nice and thin, and smooooth
  • Fantastic edges coated with thin wax to make a nice bond with the skin
  • Flawless -- Natal quality control seems to be working
Sound, tuning
  • Lively, resonant, with a full, round tone
  • Tons of attack thanks to the 45 degree bearing edges
  • They tune up in a flash, and hold their tuning very well thanks to special nylon-dipped tuning rods 
  • Very sensitive to smallest turns of the key
Lugs
Some friends really disliked the large round lugs, each emblazoned with a big Aztec-style sun. I kinda like them, but I admit they are a bit extreme.  I recently saw the new Natal Spirit mid-level kit and actually prefer the Spirit's smaller lug.  Still, they are well-made and do the job well. All lugs are well insulated with rubber gaskets, as you would expect these days.

Tom mount
The tom mount is probably my favorite part of the Natal solution. They really nailed an elegant mount, with the "RIMS-like" suspension system attached to two of the lugs.

Finish
The White Metallic lacquer finish was nice, but not amazing. I also saw a Silver Sparkle kit recently and also found it less-than overwhelming. The natural finishes I've seen are more impressive. For example, the Natal Bubinga with a natural finish is truly lovely (much more so in person than in photos).  I should note that the Natal Spirit kit I saw also had a fantastic vintage natural finish. For a mid-level kit, it impressed me as much as any of the natural Yamaha Absolute finishes I've seen!


(This is an updated version of an older post about my Natal kit, originally published in June 2012)









Thursday, July 18, 2013

Hayman Vibrasonic 2221 Pacemaker in Gold Ingot

A few months ago I took delivery of a Hayman Vibrasonic kit in Gold Ingot. Three pieces: 13-16-20.

My research tells me it's a 2221 Pacemaker (sans snare) with a 20 x 13 kick (yes, 13", with 8 lugs) and a Hayman brass badge (not George Hayman), dating it to 1969-1973.

It needed some work and was missing some parts, but I've polished up the chrome and badges, painted the hoops, and bought some missing bits. I'm not claiming to be an expert, but here are my thoughts on Hayman drums after taking this kit apart and making it nice again.


Shells
  • The shells appear to be birch and are among the thinnest I've seen. 
  • The Vibrasonic coating on the floor and kick are crazed, but not the 13.
  • The kit has no extra holes anywhere, with original baseball bat dampeners. 
  • In some places the lugs have worn into the outer ply a bit, but it doesn't seem to have caused any problem. I considered adding rubber gaskets between lug and drum, but had trouble finding any that would fit. 
  • The floor tom had some splitting at the bottom reinforcement ring. As most of you probably know, it's not a big job to glue a re-ring, so it was easy to fix.  
  • The toms are slightly over-sized, but not out of round. Some standard heads go on the toms, but Aquarian American Vintage have proved to be the best solution for ease of tuning.
  • UPDATE: I bought some Evans Level 360 G1 heads and they went on easily and tuned up in a flash. I'm thrilled since now I have some flexibility choosing heads.
  • The badge is slightly loose on the 13"
  • I polished the brass badges for many, many minutes each with automotive chrome polish
Regarding crazing, I got some nice info from a UK drum builder who asked to remain nameless. Here's what he told me in an email:
The paint Hayman used to use is a thick polyurethane and sets very hard like cement. 8 out of 10 Hayman drums do crack inside as the paint does not move with the shell (it was a stupid idea -- I told Ivor Arbiter at the time). If I was you i would just live with it. These are great old drums. 

Wrap
  • The gold ingot wrap is looking fine for its age. A few scuffs here and there, but nothing deep, and no splitting. 
  • It's a high quality wrap, I'd say. It has indeed held up to the test of time. Interesting that some folks on Vintage Drum Forum commented that Hayman wraps don't hold up. This one really looks great, as these unedited photos will show. 
  • First I washed them with unscented soap and water with a cotton t-shirt, and then I polished them using Turtle Wax dashboard cleaner.

Hoops and rims
  • Kick: I had to sand and repaint the original kick drum hoops and glue the gold ingot inlay in a few places. I used standard glossy black paint from the hardware store. Nothing fancy, and I know I'd get a better finish with spray paint or an air gun. Maybe I'll get around to that later. 
  • The kit came with original rims for the 13 and 16, so I have non-original replacements (Gibraltar) for the reso side. Hayman toms are standard sizes (if slightly oversized), so any rims will do.
  • The Hayman rims are solid and similar in weight to modern Gibraltar. Certainly a stronger build than Beverley rims from the same era.
  • I cleaned the original rims with vinegar and aluminum foil. It really melted away the rust. 

Tension Rods, Lugs
Probably the strangest thing about the Hayman Vibrasonic is the tension rods.
2221 Pacemaker - Thumbs up!
  • Hayman rods are slotted, like most vintage UK drums, but smaller gauge (smaller around) than other rods out there. The kit only came with top heads, so I was missing some rods and few swivel nuts. I had to buy original replacement rods and a few nuts from the UK at somewhat of a premium. I found this easier than swapping out for modern-size swivel nuts and rods. Also, I wanted to try to keep the kit as original as possible. 
  • I only had eight original kick rods and claws, so I used modern replacements (Cannon). That was easy enough since the kick swivel nuts are standard size. Go figure. 
  • The lugs are a bit scraped with some pitting. I cleaned them up with vinegar and aluminum foil and got them into pretty good shape.  
  • Hayman lugs/inserts are the old spring-loaded kind. I decided to pack a piece of foam in each lug to prevent noises (like used in cheap mattresses or furniture). I'm not in love with the spring since the nut has a tendency to push down when you don't expect it to. But it's not really a big issue.

Spurs
With custom logo and Pearl suspension feet on Danmar Ludwig spurs
The kit did not come with kick spurs, so I ordered 9.5mm Danmar Ludwig replacement spurs. They are actually a tiny bit short for the Hayman, so I extended them using Pearl suspension feet. Solid as a rock now, with a little help from a Gibraltar kick anchor just to be sure.







The Knuckle Cruncher 
Some call it the Knuckle Buster, some the Knuckle Cruncher. But indeed, now I see why the infamous Hayman tom holder has such a bad reputation. As others have described, it's a strange device with "a mass of joints, thumbscrews and ring screws mounted on a consolette-style rail."  It looks great, but it is indeed a pain in the butt and doesn't allow much flexibility in positioning.  I'm glad I have one since it adds some value to the kit. But I gotta say, it's not the easiest beast to use.

Sound - VERY Quick Demo
Here is a very quick demo made in the living room of my apartment at low volume - out of consideration for the neighbors. Recorded with a single Audio-Technica ATR 25 stereo mic with a Canon HD10 camera. While the video is short, it demonstrates the nice warm tone you get with the American Vintage heads.



Dating the kit
I'm no expert by any means, but evidence I've collected from various sources online suggests that my kit is from 1969, and likely a transitional kit from George Hayman to simply Hayman.

Later Hayman kick claw/rod
Early Hayman kick claw/rod
For example, it seems Hayman kick drum claws and tension rods looked like this (left) in the early days. Then later they switched to a more modern Z-shape (right). An expert has told me that the claws on the left were on George Hayman kits. But mine is certainly simply a Hayman (no George on the badges).

The Hayman (no George) brass badge patent numbers clearly say 1968 and 1969.  According to wikipedia, "each round badge on a Hayman drum has a patent number - giving the year of manufacture within the patent number."

(claw photos from eBay, thanks to Pete's Drum World)

Another piece of evidence putting my kit to the first years of Hayman drums is shell crazing. It seems earlier Hayman kits tend to craze more than later, and mine is rather crazed (the floor tom most of all, but also the kick). Allegedly it took them time to perfect the paint.


History of the kit
All I know is that it arrived from Glasgow via a nice guy named Davy who used to play with a Glaswegian outfit called Baby Chaos.  You can see Davy on the exact same kit on a few of their tracks on YouTube.
Here are some shots from before the clean-up. Luckily that sticker came off the kick with ease.




Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Video: Pearl MHX and Ludwig Classic Maple

I managed to make some decent demo videos of my 2004 Pearl MHX (now owned by my friend) and my other friend's Ludwig Classic Maple (early 2000s).

Both were recorded with a single Audio-Technica ATR 25 stereo mic with a Canon HD10 camera. I always do a little Bo Diddley thing for these demos. That way you can focus on the drums, not the cymbals (or my playing)!

Regarding the snares used, here's a good chance to compare the much less expensive Pearl Sensitone Elite Aluminum with the famous Ludalloy Supraphonic.  Honestly, if you just need a solid player's aluminum drum and don't care about resale value, consider the Pearl. Or try to hunt down an old Beverley Cosmic 21.

We tuned the Pearl MHX nice and low to bring out the characteristics of these drums: big and fat.  We used the High Resonance relationship described in the Tune Bot Tuning Guide (bottom head slightly higher, but not too much). The tom hoops are Pearl die-cast.
  • 13x9 with Ambassador X, tuned to a G with Tune Bot
  • 16x16 with Ambassador X, tuned to a C with Tune Bot
  • 22x18 with Powerstroke 3
  • Pearl Sensitone Elite Aluminum 6.5" (SuperHoops) with Ambassador X14 tuned to F# with Tune Bot




My friend with the Ludwig puts moon gel on all heads, even the resonant side. The snare also has some. I wanted to demonstrate my friend's preferred sound. I wouldn't tune this way, but he does a great job and drums sound superb. His bottom head is quite a bit higher than the top. If we use the terms described in the Tune Bot Tuning Guide, he's at what they call Medium Resonance.
  • 13x9 with Ambassador top and bottom, tuned manually to an A
  • 16x16 with Emperor top, Ambassador (Ludwig) bottom, tuned manually to a D
  • 22x16 with Powerstroke 3
  • Ludwig Supraphonic Ludalloy 6.5" with Ambassador tuned manually.



Thursday, January 31, 2013

Mr Anonymous with tips for "stagnant" drummers

My old friend Jeep "Mr Anonymous" MacNichol (formerly of The Samples) has put together a great list of tips for drummers who feel stagnant.

I can totally relate to this one in particular. My breakthrough period as a drummer came when I learned to crank the metronome down to around 60 and suffer until I learned to find the groove at slow tempos.

#4 START SLOW…any new technique you decide to learn, start PAINFULLY slow to the point where it doesn’t even feel like a drum beat or rhythm….there is always a tendency to want to play something fast instantly but FORCE yourself to play SLOW SLOW SLOW until it feels automatic like breathing. Every musician or martial artist or athlete started at the same place as you(the beginning) and they all started just as slow as you….so relax and enjoy this part because you’re only at the beginning once. 
Here's the rest of the article. Good stuff.
http://www.mranonymous.net/musicblog/5-tips-for-drummers-by-mr-anonymous/

Saturday, December 15, 2012

Build problem with Tune-Bot


UPDATE: The Tune-Bot team responded with lightning speed to my email about the problem discussed in this post. They are sending me a new pin. 

My beloved Tune-Bot has started to fall apart after a few weeks of use in a very safe studio environment.

Here are some shots. Essentially, the little pin on the clip has broken, so the bot doesn't clip properly anymore.


Bummer!

I've contacted their customer support to see what they say.  Meanwhile, I"m concerned it will fall apart soon.





Monday, December 3, 2012

Tune-Bot Review:10 Bullets

I've had a few weeks now to play around with Tune-Bot, so I finally feel comfortable committing some thoughts to paper. In short, Tune-Bot is not a silver bullet, but it will help you make your drums sound better once you follow the Tuning Guide and learn how to deal with some of its idiosyncrasies.

I'm not gonna write a proper review since there are some excellent video reviews on YouTube. For example, the Drummer Connection guys (the ones with the clear acrylic drums) really did a fine job in their review. I feel it represents the product's strengths and weaknesses accurately. If you are trying to make a decision to buy one, watch their video. My little article here is for the folks who already bought one but maybe feel a bit frustrated. I was certainly frustrated at first, but then I read the Tuning Guide, played around, and got Bot-Religion.

So here are some tips once you've got your Tune-Bot:

  1. Don't whip it out of the box and slap it on a drum without reading the manual!
  2. The best manual is the Tuning Guide. Print it out and use it!
  3. Using the Tuning Guide, choose target frequencies for your drums (page 2).
  4. Decide which top/bottom ratio you want to try first. Then try them all! Just for fun.
  5. It's handy to have a pencil and calculator on hand (or a smartphone, if you prefer)
  6. Don't start tuning while your band mates are around. You'll drive them nuts. Your first experiments should really be on your own, in a nice stress-free environment (since sometimes the learning process can be frustrating enough).
  7. Don't start using the Tune-Bot until you've got the head roughly tuned by ear. I mean, I have a pretty bad ear, but even I can get a drum into the ballpark, and then Tune-Bot helps me detect the variations that I can't hear on my own.
  8. When checking individual lug frequencies, always place the drum on the floor or on a throne! 
  9. Filter mode is your friend! Use it! When tuning a metal snare, it's indispensable! On my first pass with the bot I somehow missed out on the filter (translation: I didn't read the manual). I got readings all over the place and was cursing myself for buying a useless piece of garbage. Then I found the manual, and I found the filter.
  10. Don't follow the Tuning Guide blindly! The guide is a GUIDE, but you need to also trust your ears. That is, if you are trying to get the entire drum tuned to 124 Hz, you may only be able to achieve that by honing in on lug frequencies that differ from those listed in the guide. And regarding your ears, you may find that you'll learn to recognize differences that you may have missed before. I'm convinced that the Tune-Bot trains your ear as you use it.